Dylon

Rae-juvenated Grosgrain Shirt

©Daniel Annett for DYLON Dyes

Level: Advanced

Materials needed:

  • An old plain cream (light coloured) button down shirt
  • Grosgrain tape
  • DYLON Machine Dye Pod in Olive Green
  • Matching coloured thread
  • Basic sewing tools - sewing machine, scissors, tape measure and pins
  • Marking tool - chalk fabric pencil
  • Iron
  • Custom heat patch (optional)
  • Lighter

The Method

Dye the shirt

Step 1 & 2

1. Place the damp clean shirt in the washing machine and pop the unwrapped and opened DYLON Machine Dye Pod directly on top of the garment. Set the machine to a full 40° C cycle. Once this is complete, leave the item in the machine and  run another cycle with detergent.

2. Once the shirt has been dyed and removed from the machine, run an empty cycle using detergent to clean your machine.

3. Once the shirt is ready, leave to dry away from direct sunlight.

Always read full Dylon Machine Dyes Pod instructions on the pack before use.

Prepare and attach the grosgrain

Step 4

4. Measure the length along the back body seam and cut the grosgrain tape 2cm longer than the body measurement.

5. Cut 11cm of another piece of grosgrain to create a small hanger loop and pin to the centre back of the yolk seam. Pin hanger loop under the back yoke grosgrain.

6. Pin the grosgrain to the back of the shirt.

7. Burn each end of the grosgrain tape to seal and avoid fraying.

8. Iron and fold each end of the grosgrain tape by 1cm.

9. Stitch the grosgrain onto the shirt. Catch the hanger loop in the stitching of the back yoke tape to secure the loop.

Create a stepped hem

Step 13

10. To create a stepped hem, mark how much of the front hem you want to remove with a chalk pencil.

11. Unpick both the side seams to your preferred split opening length and cut away the excess hem from the front. We unpick both the side seams to your preferred split opening length - we have unpicked 6cm for the sample.

12. Snip both sides horizontally toward the top opening.

13. Stitch the grosgrain to the edge of the seam.

14. Leave 3cm loose at the top of the opening and continue stitching down the other side.

15. Iron the loose part of the grosgrain down, making a pointed triangle of folded grosgrain and stitch the loose edge of the grosgrain flat on the inside of the shirt.

16. Stitch on the right side of the shirt a holding stitch horizontally across the opening.

Finish the Hem

Step 18

17. Burn the ends of the grosgrain with a lighter to avoid fraying and iron and fold each end of the grosgrain tape by 1cm.

18. On the outside of the shirt, place the grosgrain along the raw edge of the hem and stitch.

19. Fold the grosgrain inside and stitch the loose edge down internally. Repeat on all raw hems.

Create the patch pockets

Step 20

20. Use the excess hem to create two patch pockets.

21. Cut out the pocket to your desired specifications.

22. Iron the raw edges by 1cm and pin the pocket on to the shirt.

23. Stitch on the edge of the pocket.

24. For workwear style stitch lines, add a second layer of stitching 5mm inside the edge stitch line. Secure the pocket opening with a diagonal stitch (optional).

25. Add your custom heat patch using an iron (optional)